Everest undoubtedly is one of my major achievement. Not just because Everest allowed me to summit but the lessons learnt leading a team to the top of the world were immense and something learnt by doing and not by reading books. I plan to devote considerable amount of time writing about preparation for everest and then execution of plan. This blog would give structure of our training, their Page links and final execution.
Due to my non-mountaineering background had to start from scratch. I was entrusted to lead the team to the highest challenge. The training and team selection had following phases-
- Endurance phase comprising of long marches, glacier march, long runs, short fast runs, load carrying built up, hill training.
- Technical phase – Ice craft, rock craft, 2 point, 4 point, anchor, belay, knots & hitches, coiling, jumaring, repelling, ladder launch, ladder crossing, Rescue.
- Sleep deprivation, water & food deprivation
- Sudden height gains
- Medical training
- Winter acclimatization
- Training on medical equipment.
- Pre-Everest expeditions to
- Stok Kangri (https://tinyurl.com/y4oj6pte )
- Golep Kangri ()
- Mt Kun.
The team did one year of exhaustive training in North India in various terrains, weather conditions.
The training locations were:
- Leh
- Kiari
- chumathang
- Tsomoriri
- Pangong Tso
- North Pullu
- Siachen
- Khardungla top
Apart from this proper courses were done in following:
- Basic Mountaineering Course (BMC)
- Advance Mountaineering Course (AMC)
- Mountain Rescue Course (for the complete team)
- Special course on Everest training.
Frequent Medicals were done
- Complete medicals of everest team
- VO2 max by wingate test
- Regular BP, SPO2 monitoring
IIT-kgp to Everest 