Indian Military Academy does not usually organise expeditions for the cadets. This changed during the year 1998. We were in our second term. During the mid term we were taken for pre-expedition training and the expedition was to be held in Jun 1998.
Fair to say that the whole expedition was a flaw. No proper training was conducted, poor planning and there was an uneasiness all around. I would blame team leader for everything, apart from bad luck and poor weather. There were a lot of volunteers for the expedition and team selection was done but nothing was perfect, and it does not work if it is not.
OVERVIEW
Mt. Kedar Dome, as the name suggests is a dome shaped mountain in Garhwal range of Uttarakhand Himalayas, India. The peak is 6831 meters above sea level. Kedar dome is considered a less technical and easy peak to climb. It is named after lord shiva and thus holds sentimental values to Hindus.
During the mid term we packed our bags and started our journey to train in the himalayas for our trek in Jun. It was March and due to some landslide we could not proceed and had to curtail our trip. We did some tent pitching and endurance training before we returned back to the academy.
However smart one maybe you cannot cheat the mountains and if someone is not trained well, they pay the price, no fooling around. Mountains offer no mercy and any mistake could lead to disaster as happened in our case.
During our term break our huge group of wanna be mountaineers started our move from Dehradun to Kedar dome. We took a halt at Uttarkashi and visited the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering there. We did not have much experience but the josh of Gentlemen cadets in IMA is always high. After spending the night at police camp, uttarkashi we started our journey to Army camp at Harsil. We spent a few days there and then started our journey to Gangotri which is the nearest road head to the peak. At Gangotri we did the darshan and started our trek to Gaumukh via bhojbasa. Bhojbasa is a 14 km and 4 h trek from gangotri, we cross chirbasa enroute. We pitched our tents there and stayed for acclimatization. This was my first time at an altitude of 3800 m, so first effects of headache and sleepless were felt. I was sharing the tent with my best buddies Manish, Rajawat and S B Singh.
From Bhojbasa we did load ferry and came across one of the most breathtaking scenes ever seen by most of us. Everything was going perfect and all of us were enjoying it. Since it was our first expedition we had no idea of what to expect.
Bhojbasa to Gaumukh is 5km and takes about 3h to reach the source of Ganges. The river Bhagirathi emerges from the snout of Gangotri Glacier at Gaumukh. We then moved to Tapovan @4400m. At Tapovan we experienced snow for the first time. Frequent visits to remove snow from the tents was common. It was fun in the beginning but fatigue later on. At each stage we ensured we spent adequate time for our bodies to adjust to the conditions.
From Tapovan our next destination was Kirti Glacier. As we reached Kirit Glacier we realised that as you go closer to the summit the weather starts deteriorating. It is pleasant at the start and with time keeps getting worse. During the past few days we realised that our team captain was a Psycho making us strip down to bare minimal clothing in snowfall in the name of mental toughness. It surely made us crazy though. Once at the glacier, the team was divided into 3 ropes, I was in third rope. First rope went for summit push and pitched up tents high up on the mountain for the final at night. As weather started packing up the team got trapped in avalanche. Kudos to sherpas for extricating the team and getting them back to base camp. However due to avalanche our medical assistant lost his shoes and died on his way back to base camp. Next day the helicopter came and took the dead and injured away. It was a sad sight and very scary too. All our enthusiasm for mountaineering had fizzled out. Strangely such events suddenly change the mood of whole camp in short span of time.
The whole team had to wrap up and return back to the base camp with heavy hearts. We were really sad for the loss, first expedition and failure. As I look back its easy to pinpoint reasons for failure and blaming it on someone. However, this kind of thing could happen to anyone. No one controls the nature and its forces just that the unlucky ones pay the price.